I'll finish setting up for gluing with the router. The router will cut only about 2mm for the foot pads placement and for the fins. Note though, the cut needs to be very precise so I've placed the router into the position and secured it with the clamp so it doesn't move:
Nakon sto smo zavrsili posao sa pilom i routerom, slijedi epoxy. Kako vec napisah, ja cu koristiti dvije vrste epoxy-a, jedan za lijepljenje, a drugi za impregniranje drveta.
Epoxy za lijepljenje je dosta gust, recimo kao med. Epoxy za impregniranje je izrazito rijedak i znatno se lakse sa njime radi - cetkom!
Kako epoxy za lijepljenje dolazi na rubove daske, koje smo unaprijed pripremili routerom, koristiti cu pigment zute boje. Zutu boju odabrao sam radi vidljivosti u morskoj vodi! Nadam se da ce i dobro izgledati!
Dakle ovo je daska spremna za epoxy. Primjetite da sam uklonio skoro sav visak sperploce do ruba kanala u koji ide epoxy. Takodjer, daska je premazana samo djelomicno sa epoxyem 4:1 za impregniranje drveta i krajevi daske su stanjeni masinom (no o tom kasnije):
After finishing with the router and jig saw, epoxy is the next thing. Like I've noted before, I'll use two different epoxy types, one for gluing and one for wood sealing.
Epoxy for gluing is like a honey, quite dense or tick. Epoxy for sealing is quite opposite, very thin and you can work with a brush!
Since epoxy for gluing will be poured into the board rail, which was cut with a router, I'll use a yellow pigment with it. Yellow can be seen in the water and hope it might look good too!
Since epoxy for gluing will be poured into the board rail, which was cut with a router, I'll use a yellow pigment with it. Yellow can be seen in the water and hope it might look good too!
The board is ready for the epoxy. I've actually removed all ply wood excess all the way to the rail where epoxy goes. And, I've used sealing epoxy 4:1 around the edges but before sealing it the board tips were thinned with a orbit sander for about 1-1.5 mm (a bit latter about this):
Kao prvo,epoxy ne smijete dirati rukama i preporucljivo je koristiti rukavice:
I was told not to work with epoxy with a bare hands so use some gloves:
Najprije sam procijenio koliki je odprilike volumen koji mi je potreban! Ne zelim potrositi vise smjese nego sto je potrebno. Volumen sam procijenio sa brasnom koje sam usipao u kanal daske i tada ga presipao u gornju posudu! Zatim sam ispuhao brasno i ocistio krpom! Nadam se da nece smetati kasnije :)
On the above photo there are: epoxy 2:1, yellow pigment, white silicone thickening agent and mixing pot with marked ratios on it. However, ratios are different for the volume I need so I'll use a digital scale. Please don't tell to my wife:)
To measure the epoxy volume, my idea was to pour something into the rail and than transfer this into the mixing pot. I really don't want to use more epoxy than needed! So, poured some white flour and gently transferred it to the pot. Than cleaned rail with a cloth and air compressor. Hopefully all flour gone:)
To measure the epoxy volume, my idea was to pour something into the rail and than transfer this into the mixing pot. I really don't want to use more epoxy than needed! So, poured some white flour and gently transferred it to the pot. Than cleaned rail with a cloth and air compressor. Hopefully all flour gone:)
Procijena je bila oko 160 grama. Krivo...Slijedi mijesanje smjese plasticnom zlicom, dodavanje 5% pigmenta i malo bijelog praska (za probu). Bijeli prasak je vrsta silikona i djeluje na smjesu tako da je zgusne. No, ne zelimo bas pre gustu smjesu.
I've measured around 160 grams. Wrong...But continued with mixing, used some plastic spoon, added 5% yellow pigment and a bit of thickening agent (just to try). Thickening agent is a silicone and it will thicken a mixture. However, too tick is not good, difficult to work with.
With the same plastic spoon I've finished pouring the rail. Note, just at the end, I needed more epoxy to finish, around 25 grams. That is ok, since the epoxy after around 20 minutes started to be difficult to work with, so new mixture was needed just on time. Good...
Zatim dolazi dio koji sam zamislio za izradu konkave na dasci. Nije bas uspjelo, no to cemo rijesiti kasnije. Naime, ideja je bila da ispod daske stavim letvu i dascicu te ucvrstim ih stegom kako bih dobio ispupcenje na dasci kad se ljepilo stvrdne. To se vidi ovdje:
Now, here comes an idea which I've thought will be good for the board concave. It wasn't good, but will fix it latter. The idea was to put a piece of wood and a bit of balsa under the ply wood and fix it in position with a clamp to get the concave after the epoxy cures. This can be seen here:
This was quite bent! Good idea but failed. On here, you can see the metal office paper clamps which I've used around a ply wood to clamp it to the above, original, board which you can't see. This way, I've got some rocker based on the above board.
Slijedi stezanje ljepila oko 24 sata. No, ne bilo kako. Ovo je kutija od stiropora u kojoj je daska i dvije zarulje koje stalno rade! Tako da je temperatura oko 50C u kutiji sto je ok za stezanje ljepila. Trebalo bi biti oko 50-60C. Pokrio sam kutiju najvecim rucnikom za plazu:)
Now the epoxy will cure for about 24 hours. To get the maximum epoxy strength, I've placed the board into the warm box with two lights of 60 Watts which created around 50 Celsius heat in the box. This is good for epoxy curing which I think needs around 50-60 Celsius. Also, covered a box with the biggest beach towel:)
Dan kasnije, daska je vani i rubovi odrezani skoro do plastike. Koristio sam ubodnu pilu za taj dio i zatim rusnim papirom fino obradio rubove. Na taj sam dio utrosio najvise vremena, cak mozda 3-4 sata jer se ispostavilo da je sperploca i epoxy uzasno tvrd i tezak za obradu!
A day after, the board is out, excess edges were cut right to the epoxy. I've used jig saw for this and than sanding paper on the edges. Well, this part was the most difficult one, so tough, at the end 3-4 hours of work to get it done! I even used the Dremel tool with cutting bit to get the excess out!
Skoro gotovo. Malo brusne masine da stanjimo krajeve daske i to je to. No otkrio sam i nedostatak koji cu morati ispraviti. Ljepilo nije rasprostranjeno po cijelom kanalu tako da je doslo do ovog:
Almost done. A bit of orbit sander work at the board tips, and that's it. However, I've discovered something which needs fixing. The epoxy didn't go to the rail edges properly, even though, I've pushed it with the knife. So, I got this:
The top area doesn't interest me, but this hole(s) needs more epoxy. I wonder how to do it properly next time. Remember, epoxy is quite tick to get in right on the edge.
That's it. Now I'll start working on the second board layer...
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